Alpine air
Rosewood Schloss Fuschl, Arquet, Permit Room by Dishoom, Daniel Boulud, l’Auberge de Pere Bises, Almhof Schneider, MORE
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GETAWAYS • Austria
Lake effect
The Skinny: Nestled at the foothills of the Austrian Alps, the breathtaking Rosewood Schloss Fuschl is less than an hour from Salzburg. But it’s more uber-idyllic-retreat than escape-from-the-city-hotel.
The Stay: Originally built in 1461 as a hunting lodge for the archbishops of Salzburg, it was reimagined as a castle hotel in the 1950s. The 98 guest rooms (including 42 suites and six lakefront chalets) are spread across two stunning structures.
As at other Rosewood properties, the design runs contemporary with vintage pieces strewn throughout. Generous rooms with marble bathrooms offer plenty of room to spread out. The spa boasts multiple saunas (Austrians take this very seriously) and offers fantastic treatments like lymphatic massages and Triple Glow facials. Indoor and outdoor pools make swimming possible year-round. A dip in the lake is among nature’s best cold plunges.
Onsite restaurants include a fine dining option (with an excellent bouillabaisse), an international spot that’s a hard-to-get reservation, and a casual option with surprises like miso hot pots. The hotel bar, decked in mural wallpaper and velvet banquettes, features live music, elegant cocktails, and a roaring fireplace.
The Key: Though the property drips with charm (like hand-painted exteriors and geranium flower boxes), the real draw is the lake, where you can take out a private boat and visit the tiny town of Fuschl and/or ogle the waterfront homes. Among other notable activities are an herbalist excursion and hot air balloon rides. In the summer, the hotel turns into a “lake club” with cabanas and umbrellas for lounging. But in the autumn, when the trees are all shades of reds, taking the three-hour walk around the water is truly magical.
Why It’s FOUND: An easy-to-get-to nature-forward property in a part of the world not on everyone’s radar. You could make it for a night from Salzburg, but once you get there, you won’t want to leave. –Zoe Schaeffer
→ Rosewood Schloss Fuschl (Hof bei Salzburg, Austria) • Schloss-Strasse 19 • Rooms from 595 € / night (~$700/night).
RESTAURANTS • San Francisco
California cool
Opened earlier this fall inside the legendary former Slanted Door space in the north end of the Ferry Building, Arquet is the long-awaited second act from Joel Wilkerson and Alex Hong (Sorrel), the team behind Sorrel in Presidio Heights. The modern California restaurant with a wood grill in the center isn’t just a hot opening, it’s also a crowning jewel in a new era for the historic structure.
After nearly 20 years as Charles Phan’s groundbreaking Vietnamese spot and an early pandemic closure, however, the large, airy dining room called out for a refresh. The revamp is on trend, with beige tones, cacti, rounded corners, and a soft LED glow. While the look is mellow, the place is lively, humming with eager crowds and a large staff. Hong can usually be seen behind the pass of the open showplace kitchen, while chefs hustle, fans tucked into aprons to feed the wood grill’s flames.
Sorrel is known for refined, intricately plated dishes. Here, Hong turns out casual and comforting plates. Hot honey chicken comes with a beautifully burnished breast, covered in a spicy and sticky glaze, and a terrifically crunchy, Nashville-style fried leg and thigh. An early hit among the starter plates is a dish of fluffy scallion fry bread served with tangy buffalo ricotta, topped with figs, salsa matcha, and honey from Hong’s own hives. –Jay Barmann
RESTAURANTS & HOTELS • London
Bombay nights
If any restaurant group knows how to expand without diluting its brilliance, it’s Dishoom, with its 11 cafés across the country (seven in London) and plans to crack the US. In 2023, the upmarket Indian chain chose Brighton to debut its spin-off concept Permit Room, an homage to drinking holes that emerged in then-Bombay after alcohol was banned there in 1949. Following openings in Oxford and Cambridge, London gained its own Permit Room in May on a touristy corner of Portobello Road.
It’s a smaller, more concentrated version of the sprawling multi-floor restaurants, in pub form, with consistently warm service — call it Dishoom-lite. While the menu is packed with Dishoom classics, there are plenty of new dishes specific to Permit Room. Kick off with chilli cheesy garlic naan bites filled with melting cheddar and spices (save some to mop up your curry). Fish chapali are three meaty spiced tilapia patties, with a spicy green chutney for dipping, while chicken pick-me-ups are deep-fried marinated lollipops with a hot red chilli chutney.
From the mains, chicken tandoori is the specialty, but we went for prawn moilee, a mild, comforting South Indian coconut curry that’s also specific to Permit Room. It contrasted beautifully with those spicier small plates, and demanded sides of soft, chewy naan and plain steamed rice. Street-food-style charred sweet potato is a highlight – the pale Indian tuber is soft in the middle, blackened around the edges and bedazzled with chilli-lime masala reminiscent of Tajín.
In a Dishoom first, the whole top floor is occupied by a boutique micro-hotel, Permit Room Lodgings, with two stylish en-suite bedrooms and a living room complete with record player and vinyl collection. –Laura Price
AROUND FOUND • Other Notable Intel & Recs
→ NEW YORK: One of the most exciting new bar openings in New York City since Sip & Guzzle debuted in early 2024 is Seed Library, which opened last month in the basement of Hotel Park Ave, brought to the city by London’s legendary bar operator Ryan Chetiyawardana (better known as Mr Lyan). The drinks are exceptional, creative without veering into the overly experimental, and clearly the result of meticulous, high-effort preparation.
→ MIAMI: As I strolled across Baha Mar’s sprawling casino floor — plush red carpeting underfoot, slot machines buzzing and whirring, a band warming up at Jon Batiste’s Jazz Club — I caught a glimpse of the aquamarine Caribbean Sea through floor-to-ceiling windows and thought: It’s Vegas, plunked down in the Bahamas. To be clear, that’s not a bad thing.
→ PARIS: When I met my Philippine friend Maria from Berlin, she was ecstatic from having studied the menu for the 10 minutes she’d spent waiting for me. A huge fan of the fully flavored Philippine cooking that chef Erica Paredes does at Reyna, she described the chef’s menu here at Mischief, her new spot in the 3rd, as being sort of like a gastronomic jam session between Miles Davis, Bad Bunny, and Mariah Carey.
ROUTINES • Getaways
Select answers to the FOUND ROUTINE query, What was your last great vacation?
→ DANIEL BOULUD, chef (NY, above): I was in Greece this summer. Thessaloniki in the north. I was in a wonderful resort there called Sani. They have a food festival and it was a very different format. They bring a chef every two weeks and the chef cooks for one night rather than a lot of chefs in one night. So they have the festival the whole summer. It was amazing for the kids. There was so much activity and soccer camp also.
→ CELIA AND JOE CATALINO, owners, Of All Places Market (SF): A short vacation over the summer to Mexico City. For us, it’s an easy trip because we know the language, are familiar with the neighborhoods, and know what we like to do there. This time, our main goal was to eat at spots we hadn’t tried yet. A few places that stood out were Maizajo, Expendio de Maíz, and Panaderia Gala.
→ MARGAUX CANNONI CHEVALLIER, general manager, Jolly Mama (Paris): Last summer, we went to explore the national parks of the American West, and we all loved it! The best memories of our trip: glamping with Under Canvas in Moab, watching the sunset at The View Hotel in Monument Valley, kayaking to Antelope Canyon from Lake Powell, and discovering Bryce Canyon on horseback.
GETAWAYS LINKS: Following 18-month renovation, Park Hyatt Tokyo reopened this week • Why Costa Mujeres is the next crucial Mexican destination • An intimate Nordic hideaway in Finnish Lapland • The Dolomites castle carrying 400 years of empire.
CULTURE & LEISURE • Weekend Routine
On the spritz
JORDAN SALCITO • CEO, Drink Ramona • author, Smart Mouth
City you live and work in: Paris
It’s Friday morning. How are you rolling into the weekend?
I’m an early riser on weekdays (Fridays included). Exercise, reading, journaling, and some version of meditation happen before 7a, then it’s time to get the boys to school. After drop-off, I get a coffee from 10 Belles (or sometimes Coutume) and take the 12 metro back home to the 9th arrondissement, where we live. Usually I’ll pick up cheese on the way at Fromagerie Quatrehomme and some other groceries on Rue de Martyrs. Grocery shopping there is like my daily nature walk.
I’m just back in Paris after three weeks in the US launching Smart Mouth, a book I wrote about wine. Now my focus is back on RAMONA, the organic Italian spritz company I started on maternity leave while overseeing the wine programs for Momofuku, almost nine years ago! We’re getting ready to launch our very first non-alcoholic flavor, so I’m coordinating with my US-based business partner and our winery partner on a few moving parts (operations, marketing), and focusing on some new partnerships with Erewhon, Whole Foods, and Disney Cruise Lines that we are incredibly excited about.
Where are you drinking or dining this weekend?
My husband and I have a date night planned at L’Ami Louis! I’ve not been yet. Other favorite spots include Parcelles (always a favorite), Restaurant Le Duc, and Le Tout Paris in the hotel Cheval Blanc, which is exceptional in every way (most especially, the service). A new spot in our neighborhood, Benjamin Schmitt, recently opened and is quite good, with a thoughtful wine program. And a friend who lives in the 6e introduced me to La Gentiane; it’s a hoot! A regular bistro most of the week, but on Friday nights it turns into a costume party. Highly recommend.
How about a little leisure or culture?
We took our boys to see The Marriage of Figaro (Les Noces de Figaro) at Le Palais Garnier. It was magic. The boys enjoyed it less than my husband and I, but I was thrilled to snag last-minute tickets for a Sunday matinée. The Fondation Louis Vuitton always has fabulous exhibitions that explore a groundbreaking artist’s life and work with such depth — currently Gerhart Richter’s. Go!
Other favorites: the Picasso Museum and the Musée Rodin, both of which manage to be uncrowded on any given day. Musée de la Vie Romantique in the 9th is lovely and has a beautiful little garden, plus a small Rose Bakery Café outpost.
Walking around Paris is like a gallery in and of itself; if you have kids, download the Flash Invader app and keep your eyes peeled for street mosaics from the artist known as Invader, with over 1500 around Paris alone (and also throughout France and now worldwide).
Any weekend getaways?
Lake Annecy in the Haute-Savoie is amazing — gorgeous hikes, a fabulous lake, terrific food and spectacular scenery. Plus it’s great for outdoor adventures (our then-five-year-old went paragliding last spring). Stay at l’Auberge de Pere Bises, which has a fabulous restaurant and wine program, with extraordinary views right on the lake.
I also love Biarritz. We went in June, inspired by our nine-year-old searching for “Space Invaders” there. The food is excellent, there’s a top-notch aquarium, and the sunset was outrageously beautiful-quite an event. Other favorite getaways the past few months included Brittany and Normandy, whether to visit the beaches and World World II memorials or to avoid that and just enjoy the sea. (Honfleur and Saint-Malo are both beautiful, and Cancale is a gem).
What was your last great vacation?
Liguria last August for our wedding anniversary. What a magic place! We stayed at the Splendido Mare with a terrace overlooking the port. Both of the Belmond Splendido locations (on the hills, in the port) have excellent restaurants. We also loved Dai Gemelli in Portofino.
Winter-wise, we love the Almhof Schneider in Lech, Austria. It’s run by Gerhold and Katia Schneider whose hospitality instincts and appreciation for art, cuisine, and beauty (generally) are second to none.
What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
I bought a wedding gift for a friend (and a few additional things to add to our collection) from Blanche Patine, antique French ceramics.
What store or service do you always recommend?
I love to recommend two companies run by two amazing expat friends. Palatine, created and run by Maisie Wilhelm, former Head of Brand for both Goldbelly and chef Daniel Boulud, is a Paris culinary concierge. Maisie helps with guided tours and restaurant reservations and culinary experiences and, without naming names, she is on speed-dial for the best. Anya Firestone (Maison Firestone) creates incredible bespoke cultural tours ranging from birthday party scavenger hunts at the Louvre to art tours throughout Paris with a select theme like “the Art of Drinking.”
Where are you donating your time or money?
Earth Justice: I’m a longtime fan. Stability in our world starts with Mother Earth.
Nomogaia: run by my brilliant and big-hearted sister who is on a mission to keep multinational corporations accountable for respecting human rights
Photo: Kateryna Komar
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